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Paper Magazine- 2002
When was the last time you looked good in a Chinese restaurant? At M there's not a fluorescent light in sight, just low, flattering illumination. Young Williamsburg locals gather around big family-style tables or perch on cherry-red stools at the bar, which is overhung with a series of lights resembling little miners' hats. Ambient music sets the tone, and downstairs is a red-hued den where DJs spin until 4am.
The name does not refer to James Bond's boss but to May Liu, the charming owner who runs the show, greetings, taking orders, fetching pretty Cosmopolitans and concocting a dipping sauce tableside for tasty, steamed seafood dumplings. Shanghai cuisine is ostensibly the focus, offering familiar items like spicy wontons and lo mien spiked with vegetables and shrimp. W
What sets M apart from standard Chinese places- in addition to the lighting, music, full bar and the groovy delivery man who reminded us of Richard Pryor in golf wear- are things like salmon hooded in soft tofu, "Freddy Mercury-style" meatballs with Chinese cabbage and brown sauce, so named because the singer's life was about taking chances. M, however, is a pretty sure thing. |
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Shecky's
'M' is for May Liu, the gracious owner of this authentic Shanghai lounge. There's something to be said for a Williamsburg bar that attracts more than hipsters. 'M' also stands for multifaceted, a priceless quality in this business. M just may be here until the next millennium.
There's a warm vibe and a yummy dumpling scent as you enter M Shanghai, which explains the chatty groups dining at long tables… add to the comfort of the surprisingly swanky den. |